Saturday, April 5, 2014

Interruptability

An Armenian woman looks me in the face and tells me that I’m her daughter. She sets out a feast that she can’t afford to pay for and tells me to eat until I’m full, then eat some more.  

A woman in plastic orange glasses stands on the same street corner selling nuts and beans every day of the week and never moves. She reluctantly takes her shivering hand out of her pocket, despite the bitter cold, to shake my hand before I enter the store.  “But where’s your dog!” she asks in Armenian, surprised to see me alone.  I march confidently into the store, knowing exactly what I need, exchanging courtesies with the workers while I shop.

I pass a parade of smiles on my walk home and casually strike up a conversation with several of them along the way – some in English, some in Armenian, some half-and-half.  Children literally gather in packs to follow me down the street, eagerly shouting out to me in broken English as I walk.  

I know the night will be a good one, because I’ll be spending it with people I love, singing Armenian songs to guitar accompaniment and sharing our lives with one another over delicious music and food.  

Every day there are so many tiny moments, known faces, and meaningful interactions that indicate that, after two years of living in Sisian, Armenia, I am more than just a guest in this community.  I’m not just someone passing through, or a tourist who can barely communicate with the locals.  No. This is my home. 

It’s really hard to say why I feel so secure here, or when exactly it all started to feel that way.  I know that it wasn’t easy, and I know that at times I would have said it’s probably not worth doing at all. 

A mixture of learning Armenian, slathering my footsteps all over the village and town, and just hanging out with people has definitely helped.  But one factor flashes neon in my mind when I think of what has really helped me to feel so integrated in this community:


Armenia has taught be to be interruptable

Interruptability means waking up each morning and surrendering the day to service. No matter what my plans are for the day, I promise to allow myself room for interruption.  It's not always easy, and I'm not always good at it. 

So on any given day, this'll mean something different.  If a friend is in pain, that’s where my attention goes. If a student wants to hold a conversation in English outside of class with me, that’s what I do. If my host mom’s porch needs to be swept and she doesn’t have the energy to do it, I sweep right on in. Whatever stands in my path, I work to be fully present with it.  

This concept has driven me to drink over a million cups of tea, to socialize with people I never would have had I been more attached to my agenda, and to trust that life and people are more important than time and schedules.

There have definitely been times when I’ve forced needs onto others and held far too tightly onto my own expectations of what service should mean in Armenia.  But each time I did that, I missed out on something beautiful.  So I’m constantly working on being more receptive and responsive,  and allowing life to move me instead of me moving it the way I want it to be.  While it’s not appropriate in every situation, it feels important to allow life to fill us up occasionally rather than try to cram it with our own conception of fullness.  


Happy Peace Corps volunteers always have at least one thing in common: strong relationships with Host-Country Nationals.  If relinquishing control and giving myself fully to wherever service points me to each day means developing better relationships, then that’s what I’ll continue to do.  

Monday, January 20, 2014

Run for a Better World

“I miss our village runs. Will you come one day this week and we’ll do our usual mountain?”

“Ampayman, Meg Jan. Let’s do it.” 

Some of my friends describe the gym that they go to back home every week as their church.  They say it’s like a watering hole; people gather there, build community, and worship life through exercise.
Talin 5K with my Dog

Like the endorphins it produces, exercise emits a sort of sanctified sublimity and attracts people into community wherever it lives.  My Peace Corps service in Armenia has been no exception to this phenomenon.  
Last fall, for example, a good friend of mine named Hasmik asked me to train her because she wanted to climb Mt. Ararat (16,946 ft.)  by the end of the summer.  Hasmik had never trained seriously for anything before and her experience with fitness was fairly limited.  
So we created a six-month training plan that included trekking down long river trails, scaling mountains, sprinting hill workouts,  and pushing endurance runs on the track – dodging haystacks, snow, and plenty of cattle pies along the way.  
I’ve never been in better shape in my life.  More importantly, Hasmik was second in her group to reach Mt. Ararat in August with suprisingly little chaffing, barely sore muscles, and tremendous success.  
Anywhere you step foot outside your door in small-town Sisian, Armenia, you can point to a new mountain you’d like to climb and proceed with the ascension without seeing another soul for miles.  The lakeside views, mountain chains, and wide-open landscape is ideal terrain for any adventure runner/fitness fiend. 

Hasmik Atop Mt. Ararat
Running hoisted Hasmik to the top of Noah's Biblical mountain, solidified our friendship, and attracted the attention of many curious Armenians as well.  Women in this community rarely exercise, especially during the day, so to see two crazy “aghcheekner” plus a dog jogging through the muddy swamps (roads) of Sisian is quite an anomaly.  
Throughout our training, we’ve accumulated several canine companions, a beautiful athletic family of new friends, plenty of offers to come in for tea or hop in someone’s car to avoid the heat/cold, and lots of awkward stares. 
But running bridges cultural gaps because it connects our bodies to something real and euphoric – something that transcends the frivolity of language and culture.  Hasmik and I connect through strides when we trudge through a snowy field or release our legs to tumble ourselves down a mountain.  No words needed.
Exercise is like church for me because it directs our attention to greatness and liberates us, if only for a workout, from the monotony of triviality.  It chizzles the fat from our bodies and the excess from our minds.  
Hasmik and my experience in Armenia remind me that exercise invites community and disciplines our minds and bodies to create better people for a better world. 
As long as I have my sneakers, then, I’ll never run out of ways to create meaningful relationships and celebrate life in a brand new community. 
Gnatsek vaselu (Go out and run)!